Chile By Design

Rafting the Futaleufu: Patagonia

Day by day itinerary: 9 d/ 8 n (2006-7)
 

Trip Dates

Dec. 20- 28, 2006
Dec. 29 - Jan. 6, 2007
Jan. 7- 16, 18 - 26
Jan. 28 - Feb. 5 wilderness special
Feb. 5 - 11 to puerto montt, 18 - 26
March 4 - 12, 14 - 21

minimum 2 people

Futaleufu Patagonia

 Price: US$2750 p/p

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Patagonia Relaxation

 

INCLUDES: Expert bilingual guides, all transport from Puerto Montt.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY AND PHYSICAL CONDITIONING: medium to high.  Although there are skilled oar-men (or women) in each boat, the "Fu" is a strong river that requires everyone to paddle a raft.  One may always opt out of any rapids and the guides will make decisions about which rapids to be run according to conditions.
 

Day 1      Welcome to Chile

Arrive in Santiago de Chile for your flight connection to Puerto Montt. A Bio Bio Expeditions representative will meet you at the Puerto Montt airport.  He or she will escort you to the charming little town of Puerto Varas that lies on Lake Llanquihue. Check into Hotel Las Cabanas Los Alerce and unwind while viewing the magnificent Volcan Osorno across the lake. Your afternoon can be spent swimming, walking around town, or visiting the fishing village Angelmo in Puerto Montt. This is a good place to purchase traditional wool products and Chilean crafts.  For those who wish to be more active, four options exist: the first, a mellow day of rafting on the scenic class III Rio Petrohue; the second a canyoneering adventure down the Rio Petrohue; the third, a bicycle ride along Lago Llanquihue; and the last, a visit to the Volcan Osorno by our local guide Carlos Galindo. The rafting and canyoneering will have to be booked in advance. Let us know before you leave if this is something you want to do upon your arrival.
     There will be a group welcome dinner at our favorite restaurant El Mediteraino where you have your choice of fresh salmon and other delectable items.

 

DAY 2        To Patagonia!
 Transfer from Puerto Varas to the Puerto Montt airport for your flight on a 17 seater Beechcraft airplane across the straits of Chiloe to the seaside village of Chaiten (40 minute flight). Our van will meet us and we will travel on the Carretera Austral south towards Cohaique.  As our adventure continues we will follow the dirt road along the Yelcho River toward Lago Yelcho. This drive is spectacularly scenic. Magnificent granite cliffs yield waterfalls giving way to steep creeks.  Glaciers hang between mountain peaks feeding the lush temperate rain forest valley. The Futaleufu River flows into Lago Yelcho, a world-class trout fishing lake. It is also home to Coho Salmon who swim unimpeded up the Futaleufu to the headwaters in Argentina or downstream to the Pacific Ocean at the port of Chaiten.
     On the way to camp, we pass a few farms that are carved into the ancient rain forest giving us a glimpse of frontier living Chileno style. We arrive at the Bio Bio base camp in time for an afternoon swim in the Futaleufu River. Your private tent platform with river views will be waiting for you. Our enthusiastic guides will lead you to your sweet new quarters on the river! After a short hike or a swim, you might want to soak in the riverside hot tub, enjoy a hot shower, and gather at the sunset bar for our first welcome happy hour.  We will introduce the whole crew and go over the plan for the week. Dinner will be served after happy hour. It tends to cool down when the sun sets so we dress warmly in the evenings.

DAY 3        Practice on the Big River
 
 Awaken on the banks of the Fu and enjoy our first morning in camp. We rise with the warmth of the sun and have breakfast at 9 am. The mornings tend to be crisp and dewy so prepare to dress warmly, a fleece is perfect. Today is a river day. We will launch our rafts from base camp after a thorough safety briefing. In a safe eddy, a short distance downstream, we'll do a set of practice rescue drills. This allows the crew in each raft to hone their skills and prepare to raft as a team.
     We use a cataraft combined with ace safety-kayakers as part of our
"safety net". Each raft is captained by a highly trained and intuitive guide who guides the boat from a stern-mounted oar frame. Guiding with oars does not detract from the paddling experience. The advantage to the oar frame is greater control in pointing the bow straight through bus size holes and 15-foot high "haystack" wave trains. High siding is also an actively used paddle command. This style is consistent with any high volume, strong current river where rapids graded 4 to 5-plus rage on. This is the Futaleufu!
     The first section that we raft, from camp down to Puente Futaleuf
u, is only 10 km, but offers more rapids per 1000 meters than anywhere else on the river. It is the perfect warm-up run and it is non-stop fun! The rapids of note are "El Cojin", the cushion, and "Mundaca", a local family name.
     At take-out we meet our van and land cruiser for a 20 minute ride back to camp. Those who would prefer a
"lower body" workout to complement their paddling are welcome to run back or ride one of our mountain bikes from take-out to camp. When we get to camp, there are lots of activities to choose from: fly fishing, trying out a kayak, volleyball, horse shoes, yoga, napping in a hammock, enjoying the sauna, a massage, hiking, or soaking in the hot tub. Taking a hot shower, either indoors or under the big sky are luxuries you can get used to while camping! Of course, for the hardy, the river provides a cold bath and refreshing swim.
     As the sun sinks behind the mountains, enjoy a game of chess or darts at the sunset bar.  Every afternoon is Happy Hour with an open bar consisting of beer, wine, soda, and juice.  Then, we gather together in the kitchen-dining
"Galpon" for a candlelight sit-down dinner featuring fresh locally grown produce and fresh-baked breads.  After dinner, we enjoy the campfire and the stars before we retire to our cozy tents on their private platforms. The sound of the river will send us dreaming of the next day of big white water or other wonderful activities.
 
DAY 4 Futaleufu River Valley   See Photos!
Officially day two of our rafting extravaganza. Our aim is to settle into a river rhythm that will be employed in order to successfully raft the next few sections the Fu.  After breakfast, we will launch our rafts from camp and have lunch on the river. We pass the Puente Futaleufu, yesterdays take-out, and immediately round the corner, to meet a big stomping continuous cascade of waves known as "Mas o Menos", translated, "More or Less".  This is a good stepping stone towards our first true blue class five technical rapid: "Casa de Piedra" which is right around the next corner. We will get out of our rafts to scout this massive boulder choked rapid from the banks of the Fu. It is formed like a series of water wheels that channel all of their fury into a final churning pit with a dragon's back highway through it; that is, if you hit it on line.
     After this rapid we will run the remaining class 3 and 4 rapids as our hearts start beating at their normal rates. If you have the energy and desire, you can ride a mountain bike back to camp.  We will have a van waiting for the rest of us for a short scenic drive back to camp. We will celebrate the day, enjoy the spa and get ready for another fabulous dinner.
DAY 5 Futaleufu River Valley
 Today we venture deeper into the heart of Patagonia on horseback. Our ride proceeds up the Rio Azul River valley which is surrounded by snow capped peaks. In the valley, we follow a narrow trail riding next to the turquoise Rio Azul River. The ride is approximately 8 miles. We will have lunch along the way.
We plan to reach our new camp,
"La Cascada", translated "the waterfall" by late afternoon.  La Cascada is built at the base of a 120 foot waterfall in an enclave of old growth forest. Upon arrival at La Cascada, we can relax and enjoy the glorious waterfall, hike through the forest, or go for a swim and then relax on the river front beach of the Azul.  The camp also includes hot showers, a sunset bar, a beautiful wood hot tub, and the hand crafted "Quincho" (a traditional Patagonian dining area).
Before we reach camp, we will pass through several local farms stopping to buy fresh provisions for our evening in the wilderness. Items such as cheese, bread, jams, vegetables and chicha, the local fermented cider may be available. Visiting local families and their ~estancias
" translated ~farms"  gives insight to the Patagonian frontier lifestyle.  A Chilean welcome is synonymous with an Asado and is always prepared for special guests. Tonight our two ~Huasos" Mervin and Moises will prepare their Asado   feast for us. Dinner will be eaten in our Quincho or around the campfire followed by a bon fire and guitar music on the beach.  You will retire to your private tent platform along the creek with the sound of flowing water to lull you to sleep.
 
DAY 6 Futaleufu
Today several choices are available. The first option, for keen horse riders, is to ride across the Rio Azul River and farther up the Azul valley. Today's ride will reach the tributaries that form the Azul and reveal one of the most spectacularly beautiful cascading staircase waterfalls in the world. The cascade falls 300 feet over smooth granite and jagged rocky edges exploding off the rock's faces at different angles causing rainbows to form. One can relax and lie mesmerized at the base of the waterfall for hours.  Towards afternoon we will ride back to the stable and return to Bio Bio base camp for happy hour in the sunset bar. 
The second option, for those who are feeling river adventurous and want to paddle their own, is to hop into inflatable kayaks and navigate the narrow and technical Rio Azul River downstream to its confluence with the Futaleufu River. After merging with the Fu, get ready to run big volume class 3 and 4 rapids for several miles until the lip of the class V Terminator rapid. Here we will take out and load our inflatables onto a waiting oxen cart and hike 1.5 miles back to base camp. Both of these options provide one of the most memorable days of fun filled adventure imaginable.
 
DAY 7 Futaleufu
We will have an early breakfast in camp then travel 35 kilometers up the road to visit the town of Futaleufu.  You will have about an hour to stroll around this sleepy mountain town whose central plaza is filled with the fragrance of rose bushes and cedar trees.
After strolling around town, we will launch our boats on the Rio Espolon. This crystal clear river meanders for 2 miles before it flows into the Rio Futaleuf
u one mile above the "Inferno Canyon". This upper canyon requires aggressive class V paddling and is the most difficult section of white water on the river. Many other options exist for those who choose not to participate in Inferno Canyon.
     Five distinct rapids form a narrow sinuous river passage creating a wet surge and a full
-on adrenaline rush.  As we come out of Exit, the last rapid, we enter into a long calm. The current remains swift and we cruise many miles downstream arriving at the mandatory portage around the fierce "Zeta" rapid. We have lunch on the rocks as the crew "ghost boats" the rafts through this treacherous rapid.
     After lunch, our first obstacle is
"Throne Room",  a class V+ rapid for kayaks, a ghost boat rapid for rafts. By walking around this rapid, we get a great bird's eye view of an almost ~river wide" hole that could destroy a raft. Back on board our rafts, we are dealt a Royal Flush; a continuous class IV corridor of rapids does not let up until we get to our take-out spot at the Rio Azul footbridge. The rafts are left tethered on shore.
     Early evening is spent in camp getting ready for the evening festivities. We journey over to the neighboring farm of Miguel Toro who at 70 years young is one of the most colorful and charming natives of the valley. At his Casa his daughter Bianca and her partner Umberto prepare a very special treat. It is a delicious dinner called
"Curanto" that is typical of the south of Chile and the island of Chiloe. 
 
DAY 8 Futaleufu
 Today, we must be mentally and physically well prepared for the river. We call it the "summit day"as we aim to top our already great paddling days with the best day of white water in the world. After a nutritious breakfast, we head up river to the footbridge where we left the rafts yesterday. As our day on the river begins, the blue glacial run-off from the Rio Azul River merges into the Fu from the right. The views of the snow capped mountain peaks and jagged ridges of the mountain "Las Tres Monjas", translated, ~the three Nuns", are absolutely breathtaking.  A six-kilometer stretch of warm up rapids leads us to the longest and toughest rapid that we will raft, "The Terminator".  We scout and study our line, then we take the plunge and drop in. "Left turn, right turn, dig it in --hard forward!" are a few of the commands that might be heard.  The next three miles are non-stop rapids. After an aerobic workout, we pump through the enormous haystack wave train known as the "Himalayas".  Just when we need it, a calm returns, we float gently into lunch, served at our base camp.
     After lunch, we return to the river to complete the task for the day, tackling as much white water as possible. We raft the whole section of river from camp to below Casa de Piedra. At take-out, cold beers and tea are waiting.  We make a triumphant return to camp to celebrate our days spent exploring Futaleuf
Uvalley and river.
For the festivities, Rolando, Nelli and Sonia will prepare a typical Chilean Asado-- lamb roasted over a bed of coals, ensalada, potatoes and farm fresh bread. We toast the river and give thanks for our safe passage. Under a bright starry sky, we will spend our last night together as a group on the banks of the mighty Fu with the guides and crew.
 
DAY 9 Bye Patagonia!
An early start gets us out of bed. After loading up your personal gear, our van will take you to Chaiten to catch your flight to "mainland" Chile. A midday flight from Chaiten returns you to Puerto Montt, where you meet your flight connection to Santiago. An evening arrival in Santiago permits you to transfer to the international departure lounge, pass through customs and shop for duty free wines.  We hope when you board the airplane you will look back upon your time in Chile, the friends you have made and think of the beauty of the Futaleufu River and Patagonian wilderness. A time to treasure, you let yourself go! Ciao amigos, Ciao Ciao Chile.
 
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